Labor, an ongoing concern for the full-service restaurant industry, offers a special malaise in many markets right now: an outright shortage of educated, skilled people who will work for what restaurants can pay. Operators have been able to tap into a seemingly endless supply of out-ofwork actors and starving artists to staff front-of-the-house positions. And kitchens could count on newly minted culinary school grads and career-changers who love food. Where did they all go? These people ...

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