We’re not sure Frank Bonanno fully grasps how this artisanal cooking thing works. Someone who reaches his level of achievement—chef/owner of Denver’s top-rated Mizuna and Luca d’Italia restaurants—is supposed to be sourcing ingredients from artisanal suppliers, not still making so many of them himself. But that’s what he’s doing at his third and newest Denver operation, Osteria Marco, a casual Italian salumi bar/pizzeria he opened last November. At least Bonanno knew what he was getting ...

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