Now that dog meat is off the menu and local dishes have been renamed to sound more appealing to visitors (the Chinese government has decreed that the appetizer historically known as “husband and wife’s lung slice” will temporarily become “beef and ox tripe in chili sauce”), Beijing restaurant operators are ready to welcome the world to the Olympics next week. But food safety remains a huge concern for many Western visitors, even those with cast-iron stomachs who normally seek out exotic ...

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