IT ISN'T A SIMPLE THING to reinvent a restaurant, especially for a tough crowd like New Yorkers. But if anyone is up to the task, it's Sam Hazen, who last fall reopened the idled Veritas, a wine cellar that happens to have a restaurant upstairs. Hazen is a veteran of such iconic spots as New York's La Côte Basque and the Quilted Giraffe and London's Le Gavroche; in recent years he's lent his talents as executive chef at the flashy and busy Tao locations in New ...

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