Amid the news of French wines getting beaten up in the U.S. marketplace by inexpensive and trendier imports from Australia and South America; French vineyards being uprooted for more saleable cash crops; and lakes of French wine sitting unsold waiting to be distilled into neutral alcohol for ethanol it's easy to lose sight of the fact that French wines remain one of the best choices and values for the prudent restaurateur. The more moderate levels of alcohol, the lessin-your-face fruitiness, ...

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