Big, expansive restaurants are great fun when they’re full of happy, lively customers. They can be graveyards on slow nights when many tables are empty and the space feels cold and hapless. That’s what was happening at Paris Club, a sprawling Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises property that opened in 2011 in a downtown Chicago space once occupied by Brasserie Jo. In characteristic fashion, the much-admired restaurant company moved fast to make changes. “Paris Club ...

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