Iron Chef Michael Symon told me a long time ago that the difference between good and bad cooks is that good cooks know how to season food properly. I remember what he said every time I go into a restaurant where there are no salt and pepper shakers on the table. Of course, most “better” restaurants don't put either on the table because their chef knows exactly how much seasoning his or her food needs. I'm down with that. Unless, of course, they don't. And then ...

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