On Memorial Day, while most of America had family gatherings that involved food cooked on grills, I ate lunch in a contemporary Mexican restaurant with my girlfriend. The place was nearly empty as the young, upbeat server approached to take a drink order. “Margarita?” “Sure,” I say. “Are you using a sour mix?” “Yes,” she says, noting that the house margarita is dispensed from a tap. “But if you upgrade to Patron, the bartender will shake it for you.” “Does the upgrade involve ...

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