Not every restaurant encourages customers to “have it your way.” I was at a new burger joint recently, one run by a young chef who had gained notoriety for cooking at high-end restaurants. And I’m crazy about his burgers. But on my last visit, a friend with a dairy allergy accompanied me. She ordered a burger that comes with several ingredients, including Raclette cheese, but asked our server to have the cheese removed. The server, without skipping a beat, pointed to a ...

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