Taking it from the streets

At first blush, it’s easy to confuse America’s love of comfort foods with the recent surge of street foods showing up on restaurant menus. Both offer an easy casualness that most of us love. But consider this: Many of the street foods showing up on U.S. menus incorporate unfamiliar ingredients from far-flung places that most have never visited. On that level, street foods often challenge more than they comfort, at least initially. Perhaps Americans have embraced them because of ...