Mediterranean comfort food is defined differently by different chefs, but all agree that the flavors of the region make these specialties memorable. At One Market Restaurant in San Francisco, Chickpea Fries ($6.75) are a specialty side dish served with harissa aioli. Chef Mark Dommen says the inspiration for this recipe was the classic panisse from Southern France. “When I was learning how to cook, I used to make them, cut them out in circles, and fry them. When I got to One Market ...

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