“It’s hugely popular up here in Rochester,” Daniele beams. But staying in touch with what modern diners want doesn’t have to mean going all-in with edgy techniques and technology. Take Scarletti’s, a 100-seat restaurant in Downer’s Grove, Ill., about 25 miles west of Chicago where the new age of discovery of Italian food is in full bloom. What makes Scarletti’s stand out from the crowd is that the restaurant allows guests to expand their culinary ...

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