Given the nonstop attention devoted to chefs, it seems unlikely that any of them who possess real talent could fly under the food world's radar for long. But it turns out that there is an entire universe of sophisticated, accomplished chefs few people know. And these chefs, their food and their restaurants are worth learning about, judging from the staggering array of information about them presented in COCO: 10 World Leading Masters Choose 100 Contemporary Chefs (Phaidon Press, $49.95). ...

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