There wasn’t much of a buzz earlier this fall when Michelin released the third edition of its New York City restaurant rankings and the second edition of its San Francisco guide. Minor tweaks were made, to be sure; otherwise, why buy a new guide? But overall, the list of honorees remained much the same in each city. Michelin alerts chefs beforehand if it is going to demote their restaurant, making the last few days prior to each guide’s release date a nervous time for those who already hold ...

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