A SNOUT FULL: Chefs—and guests—crave the taste of pork. It seemed innocent at the time. "Ruhlman!" said Michael Symon, chef-owner of Lola in Cleveland, "We gotta do a book about the pig!" A few days later, cooking at a benefit at The Culinary Vegetable Institute, I mentioned this to Brad Thompson, then chef at Mary Elaine's in Phoenix. He shook his head and said, "Every chef in America wants to write a book about the pig." For the event, Thompson had procured a splendid pork belly for ...

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