ICON: You know the name James beard. Now you can find out where he came from and why he's so revered. If only they could go back and rename David Kamp's The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation (Broadway Books; $26). This verbiage seems to suggest a lighthearted look at the wacky world of food, but Kamp's fine book delivers so much robust content it's worthy of a more dignified title. It tracks the development of foodie culture in the U.S. from the 1950s up until ...

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