How glamorous is the perception of full-service restaurants and the people who work in them? Television networks can't get enough of them. The latest entry, Celebrity Cooking Showdown, should have been the most successful one yet. It combined the proven formula of the Food Network's Iron Chef mano-a-mano cookoffs with that of ABC's rating champ Dancing with the Stars, where stumbling incompetents morphed into nimble-footed performers over the course of just a few shows. The idea seemed so ...

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