Even while working at the pinnacle of fine dining, David LeFevre yearned to run a laid-back operation. When Starchefs.com asked him back in 2006 where he saw himself in five to 10 years, the then-executive chef at iconic Los Angeles seafood restaurant Water Grill replied that he had it all planned out. “I see myself in beautiful surroundings, in a less metropolitan and slightly smaller restaurant with a highly personalized cuisine,” he said. Five years later, that's ...

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