Everything connected with David Overton's first two concepts, The Cheesecake Factory and Grand Lux Cafe, is big: their menus (200-plus items at Cheesecake; 150 at Grand Lux), their portions, their dining spaces, their lines to get in and, most importantly, their grosses. He's shooting for more of the same at his company's new RockSugar Pan Asian Kitchen, which opened in June in the Westfield Century City Mall in Los Angeles. Except there's one more “big” item attached to this one: the risk. ...

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