The legendary Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo is the epicenter of the world’s seafood supply, famous for its early morning auctions of wildly expensive and highly prized bluefin tuna. Now two Canadian restaurateurs have shown their fellow operators a way to bypass Tsukiji and buy bluefin direct, dramatically reducing their costs and reaping a publicity bonanza as part of the process. Why doesn’t everyone do this? There are several caveats. One is that even buying direct from the boat, ...

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