No wonder restaurants now emphasize local, seasonal and sustainable ingredients on their menus. That’s what customers want, and we got a first-hand look at how badly they want them on Labor Day weekend, when 60,000 people turned out for the inaugural Slow Food Nation in San Francisco. The event turned out to be the largest celebration of food in America—ever—despite being devoid of superstar chefs, Food Network hosts, Top Chef contestants, competitive eaters or any of the other food world ...

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