From: Mich'l Otsuka, Verbena, New York City. Yield: 6 servings.
10 pounds veal bones
3 cups onions, peeled and diced
2 garlic heads
3 cups carrots, peeled and diced
2 cups celery, washed and diced
3 parsley branches
3 thyme branches
3 bay leaves
4 whole cloves
1 quart katsuo (shaved dried bonito flakes)
½ cup mirin
18-inch piece of kambu (kelp used for cooking)
¼ cup soy sauce
Vegetables, Veal and Noodles:
1 12-oz. package dry udon noodles, cooked in rapidly boiling salted water and shocked in ice water.
1 quart napa cabbage, leaves split vertically then sliced very finely, blanched in boiling salted water for 1 minute and shocked in ice water
1 cup carrot, peeled and finely julienne
1 cup bamboo shoots, cooked and slivered
1 cup konyaku (Japanese yam noodle paste), cut into thin long strips
1 cup scallions, very finely sliced
1 boneless veal loin, de-nerved, wrapped in plastic and frozen.
¼ cup toasted sesame oil
1 tsp. shichimi chili flake
1 tsp. toasted sesame
In a large stockpot, cover veal bones with cold water. Bring to a simmer and discard water. Cover again with 3 gallons cold water and bring to a slow simmer and cook for 3 hours on a low flame. Skim any scum or fat that rises to the surface. Add vegetables, herbs and spices. Simmer for another 30 minutes, then strain through a fine mesh strainer. Add katsuo and simmer for five minutes, then add kombu, mirin and soy, and remove from heat. Allow kombu to steep for 10 minutes, then strain the stock again. You should have a flavorful broth that is not too rich. If it seems light, reduce it by boiling rapidly. If too rich, add water to adjust consistency.
For veal loin, unwrap, slice on electric meat slicer 1/8” thick and arrange on sheet pans in 6 pinwheels, being careful not to overlap by more than ¼ inch. Store in refrigerator. Make sure meat is thawed before serving.
To serve, warm 6 large pasta bowls in an oven that is turned off. When ready to serve, place udon in large bowl and cover with hot tap water. Drain water and toss with sesame oil. Divide noodles among the bowls. Place konyaku in hot tap water for 1 minute, drain and place on top of each pile of noodles. Toss bamboo shoots, carrots and napa cabbage in a bowl. Cover with hot tap water for 1 minute. Drain well and divide among bowls. Place one veal pinwheel on top of each bowl and garnish with toasted sesame, shichimi and scallions.
Bring broth to a rapid boil and adjust seasoning if needed with soy sauce or mirin. Pour broth into a heated soup tureen or other vessel for table service.
Bring bowls to the table and ladle broth over each pinwheel until the veal floats in the hot broth. Remind guests to stir up bowls until meat reaches desired temperature, then enjoy. Offer chopsticks and soup spoons.