What we’re seeing:
Let’s admit it: The salted caramel Twinkie really took us back. Throwback desserts are just one nod to yesteryear—today’s restaurateurs are getting nostalgic with retro liquors, cooking techniques and flavors. Pour us another round of that bathtub gin.
What they’re saying:
Jose Andrés, ThinkFoodGroup: Forgotten recipes are making a big comeback. Recipes like the original oyster catsups, the shrub cocktail or the mutton and oysters are well worth reviving.
In the kitchen:
• When Jose Garces was about 5 years old, he was very into milk and cereal. His favorite was Frosted Flakes. Today, he prepares a grown-up, savory version at Volver in Philadelphia that features white asparagus milk, rice flakes and thyme marshmallows.
• Desserts on the menu at Play at The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs go the retro route with the likes of Chocolate Peanut Butter Whoopie Pies, Cherry Fried Pies, Chocolate Fondue and Fruity Pebbles Rice Crispy Treats.
• Ben Ford of Ford’s Filling Station in L.A. is throwing it way back, generating buzz about milling his own wheat. Pastas that are made with gluten-free wheat or other grains may actually save pasta in this country, he says. “Fresh flour is more alive and has a wonderful taste, whereas bagged flour is often stale or even rancid.”
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