Late summer and early fall are prime time for state fairs and the anything-goes food culture that’s become part of the fair-going experience. You’ll always find an overabundance of deep-fried and bacon-wrapped offerings up and down the midway. But each year produces a handful of new items that show evidence of genius-level culinary—or at least marketing—savvy. Restaurant operators may want to think of fair food as test-marketing you don’t have to do, ...

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