TOAST OF THE TOWN: Desaulniers put Williamsburg on the dining map. When The Trellis opened its doors in 1980, Williamsburg, VA was a culinary backwater: While chefs in more progressive markets were experimenting with regional cooking and adding more seasonal fresh ingredients to their repertoire, menus in the history-steeped village promised ho-hum fried fish, chicken and canned vegetables. Marcel Desaulniers changed all that, bringing seasonal contemporary American cuisine to town. ...

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