30 under 30
Keep your eye on these up-and-coming players.
Revital Melech, 27, pastry chef, Abboccato Ristorante, New York
Why we're impressed: Her Israeli background, feminine point of view and belief that “the first bite is taken with the eyes” contribute to Melech's distinctive style.
Cooking style: At Abboccato, true-to-the-ingredient interpretations of Italian classics. Her unique desserts incorporate seasonal ingredients that are balanced with modern, unexpected flavors from her Mediterranean background
Why pastry: Melech told Jewcy.com: “It's tedious. It's annoying. It's a struggle. It tests my own limits and what I can do. You have to be very precise, because you can't go back once you're done.”
Sideline: Melech also operates a wedding cake business, Revital's Cakes.
Dan Pilkey, 27, sommelier, Addison at The Grand Del Mar, San Diego
Why we're impressed: Attained advanced sommelier certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers at the young age of 27, Pilkey also was recently invited to take the exam to become a master sommelier, the court's highest level.
What makes a great wine list? “Balance. It's the key to a successful, profitable and fun wine program. And making it affordable to everyone only increases the opportunity. The key is to combine top brand names and esoterics. And to leave a little buying power and space for seasonal or trendy wine movements.” Addison (named for Addison Mizner, an architect who launched the Florida design renaissance in the 1920s, and whose influences are evoked at The Grand Del Mar) has a 3,000-bottle wine room.
First job in foodservice: While most kids were manning a fryer, at 15 Pilkey's first job was a vintner's assistant, Wente Vineyards, Livermore, CA. “I fell in love with wine there. I began collecting books. I found The History of Wine by Hugh Johnson and became enchanted.”
Ladder climbing: Vintner's assistant, then waitstaff captain, Wente Vineyards; sommelier, Nine-Ten restaurant, La Jolla, CA; sommelier, Tapenade, La Jolla.
What the future holds: “To be a master sommelier by 30 and to teach wine at the college level.”
Sean Brock, 29, executive chef, McCrady's, Charleston, SC
Why we're impressed: Part chef, part farmer and part molecular gastronomist, Brock relays the history of the South through astonishing food.
Cooking style: Native Virginian Brock combines classic Southern cooking — learned in no small part from his grandmother — and modern food science.
Awards and praise: As executive chef at Hermitage Hotel, Nashville, achieved Mobil Four Star status and one of Gourmet magazine's America's Best Restaurants for the Hermitage's Capitol Grille; named Nashville's Best Chef by Nashville Scene.
What the future holds: I'll always use my ability to cook as my little pathway to raising awareness. There are very few people interested in the preservation of specific cultures, seeds and stories. I want to raise awareness of Southern culture. That's my mission — to preach the country ham and bourbon thing. We have so much to be proud of in the South.”
Cary Taylor, 28, executive chef, Chaise Lounge, Chicago
Why we're impressed: In just six years, the once-aspiring sportswriter ascended the Chicago culinary scene at breakneck speed from an internship at Charlie Trotter's, through some of the city's best kitchens, as well as Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises.
Critical acclaim: “Combining a little of his Southern roots with an education in some of Chicago's finest kitchens, chef Cary Taylor brings new culinary life to Bucktown's most breathtaking lounge.” — Modern Luxury magazine
10 years from now: “I hope to be a successful chef and restaurateur and to have a family that I'll get to spend as much time with as possible.”
Lauren Fortgang, 28, pastry chef, Paley's Place, Portland, OR
Why we're impressed: By her early 20s, Fortgang was already having an impact on the national scene at New York's famous Craft and Hearth restaurants. Her pure style of baking and respect for the ingredients dovetail with Vitaly Paley's emphasis on fresh, local organic ingredients.
Baking style: Elegant updates of classic desserts. Seasonal produce takes center stage. “I'm not trying to manipulate flavors. I'm trying to bring out the true flavors of the food and fruit.”
Awards and praise: “One of Portland's best dessert spots” — The Oregonian. Her banana cake with mascarpone frosting appeared on Food & Wine's cover last March.
Nate Appleman, 27, executive chef/co-owner, A16, San Francisco and SPQR, San Francisco
Why we're impressed: A16's executive chef since 2006, he has adopted an old-world Campania style. His expertise in meat procurement and preparation are evident in the sopressata, coppa, wild boar salumi and more.
Critical acclaim: “It's a place you want to return to until you've tried everything on the well-edited menu — a salon for food aficionados.” — San Francisco Chronicle.
What the future holds: His third restaurant, Urbino, will have a central butchering facility. “Eventually, I'd like to have six restaurants.”
Dani Arana, 26, executive chef, Taberna del Alabardero, Washington, DC
Why we're impressed: At a young age, Arana has been given great responsibility: to helm the kitchen of the restaurant deemed by the Spanish government to be “the best Spanish restaurant in the United States.”
Education and training: With two working parents, Arana's earliest skills were honed at home in Huelva, Spain. Later, he attended the Culinary School of Seville.
Cooking style: At the 19-year old Taberna del Alabardero, Arana is staying the course, continuing the restaurant's mission to bring the best of Spain's traditional fare to Washingtonians and visitors. This includes three paella entrees, which he's often asked to cook on local television and at events around Washington, DC. “I don't want to change the cuisine too much,” he says. “Guests, especially our regulars, have grown to love the classical Spanish cuisine that we prepare, so I will keep a similar style, just tweak it a bit.” Arana imports some of Spain's best products and complements them with local produce.
Ladder climbing: sous chef, Cafe de Oriente, Madrid, Spain; sous chef, Taberna de Alabardero.
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