There's been a lot of talk lately about restaurant reviewers, and not much of it is complimentary. For a brief time I reviewed restaurants for a newspaper, and it's a job that does not win one popularity contests. I gave it up quickly because I couldn't get used to the idea of making judgements about the quality of someone's work, someone's life. For many of you, your restaurant is your life. You spend an inordinate amount of time every day trying to make a living pleasing people. It's ...

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