Fear of commitment is the driving force behind the enduring popularity of small plates: Ordering a smaller, less expensive portion of some novel taste seems less risky than plunking down $30 for a dish you may not enjoy, and you can sample several different tastes instead of being married to one. If food can be intimidating, consider wine. Viewing a wine list can fire up dormant insecurities in even the most confident people. And as the number of wineries and labels turning up in ...

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